The bouldering

...a boulderers paradise

The Rock

...sandstone

The sandstone boulders of Font offer a huge variety of features: slopers, crimps, roofs, high-balls, rounded mantles, dynos, aretes, slabs, compression problems and pretty much anything else you can think of. If you can't find a problem in Font that's your style then maybe bouldering's not for you.

Sandstone by it's nature is very susceptible to erosion so make sure you clean your shoes before stepping on to the rock and don't climb on wet or even damp rock.

Areas

...take your pick

You are spoilt for choice with number of different bouldering areas in Font, all offering slightly different experiences. Most guidebooks will highlight which areas are best in the sun, after rain, with children, good for high-balling etc. They all tend to have good and often sandy landings and walk-ins to the boulders are never usually more than 20 mins with many literally within sight of the car park.

During holidays and at the weekends the more popular areas like Bas Cuvier and Roche aux Sabots can be busy so if you're there for a week or more it's best to leave these areas to mid-week.

Eclipse 7c, Le Cul de Chien - © Jen Randall

Grades

...just a guide

Grades are just a guide so try not to get too hung up on them. Some think that grades in Font are stiff but once you're into the style and movement of the climbing and get a problem in good conditions it should hopefully all come together. If not, just remember a certain Mr Ondra fell off La Marie Rose in Cuvier graded f6A!

Chalk or Pof

...chalk

This is still a highly debated topic without a definitive answer although outside of France the general consensus is a very clear: don't use pof, use chalk.

Pof is dried pine tree resin that is wrapped in a cloth and then used to smack the holds which leaves a sticky residue on the rock therefore making the rock grippier. The problem with it is that the transferred resin hardens, builds up and becomes glassy meaning the only real solution is to add more pof. A fair number of French climbers (particularly older ones) still use pof in Font and its use is still advocated by a number of French climbing websites and organisations so I'm sure this debate will carry on for some time.

Look after it

...goes without saying

Like any bouldering venue it's up to climbers to look after it and ensure it remains for future generations. Here's a few simple rules to follow: no chipping; no fires; avoid excessive use of chalk and brush off tick marks; leave nothing behind when you leave; no camping in the forest; don't climb on wet sandstone; and clean your feet before you step onto a problem.

Planes, trains & automobiles

Getting there

A home away from home

Where to stay

Let's talk weather...

When to go

Pointing you in the right direction

Guide books

Coffee & Croissants

Food & Gear

And relax...

Rest days

Menu

...a little guide*

Note the guide part! If you have any changes or additions that you think would be good to include, just let me know. Thanks.

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